27th June: Coastal birding in Northumberland

 We started today at the tern colony at Long Nanny burn, near Beadnell. Parking at the back of the dunes we climbed a sandy ridge and encountered a wide expanse of beautiful golden beach stretching around the bay, with hardly a soul in view. About a mile from the car park there is a roped off area which is used as a nursery for breeding Arctic Terns. We found some birds resting or feeding in this area, and a single tiny chick was in evidence - apparently there has been much predation this year, primarily from stoats and corvids. A few Ringed Plover were seen here, making short rapid runs, then checking around, before speedily scurrying forth again.

Arctic Tern

Most of the terns were actually lower down the beach, closer to the damp sand and tidal pools left behind as the sea retreated. Scanning through with the scopes we could see several first summer birds with black rather than red bills scattered amongst the adults. A few Little Terns with their white foreheads, egg yolk yellow bills and diminutive size loitered amongst the flock, whilst other birds in the mix included Kittiwakes and Great Black- backed gulls. Tim managed to pick out the single Black Tern that has been present here for some time and we all managed decent scope views before it was spooked  by an Arctic Tern. It then took flight with the Arctic in hot pursuit and we were treated to a spectacular aerobatic display, revealing a brilliant white underbelly contrasting with the deep black head. It soon landed again directly in front of us giving incredible views. The black wings were tinged with a white edge, a sign that the transition out of breeding plumage has already begun, the ranger informed us.

Black Tern

After a couple of hours here, we drove on to the village of Craster, and walked from here along the coast path back to Newton-by-the-Sea. The route here is an easy grassy path running just above the sea, with the splendid Dunstanburgh Castle providing a fabulous backdrop to the wonderful views. 

Dunstanburgh Castle

We encountered nurseries of Eiders, with fluffy ducklings in tow, bobbing on the sea, and also good numbers of auks tracking past at speed, wings beating rapidly as they fly low over the water. In a ravine by Dunstanburgh Castle,  a colony of noisy Kittiwakes and graceful Fulmars shared the rock faces, and gave excellent views.  From the other side of the castle we were able to see the extent of this colony was much larger than we had realised, and we also observed a large raft of Razorbills drifting on the water below the cliffs. 

Fulmars

Kittiwake

We continued on our way, following sand dunes edging a links golf course. Still closely watching the sea we found two Red-throated Divers holding their bills aloft in typical fashion, and two chestnut headed Goosanders fishing offshore. Having seen many female and young Eiders, we were pleased to finally see a male, albeit in eclipse plumage rather than the regular stunning white plumage. Walking through the dunes, we were serenaded by the lilting songs of Linnets and soft calls of Reed Buntings, with some birds perching helpfully atop the bushy scrub enabling us to admire their bold, colourful breeding plumage. An occasional Dunnock also contributed its own musical notes and its more muted, yet still subtly beautiful plumage. I kept thinking I could hear Yellowhammers asking for bread and no cheese, and eventually managed to spot one, its  buttercup yellow head shining bright in the sunlight.

 As we approached Low Newton nature reserve a Sedge Warbler posed above the marshy vegetation and adjacent to the beach a single Ringed Plover could be seen next to a fenced nesting enclosure. On the pond some Wigeon rested in front of the hide, a Little Grebe popped up and vanished with great regularity, while a patrolling Mute Swan with wings raised was clearly not standing for any nonsense! Next we found a muddy scrape, with good numbers of Black-tailed Godwits, Redshanks and a few Avocets actively feeding surrounded by a few sheep, before arriving at the village. 

This was a lovely if somewhat tiring walk in very warm conditions, with both the scenery and birds making it feel very rewarding. One thing we found interesting was the absence of raptors - in Sussex or on the Cornish coast path, coastal walks are regularly punctuated by Kestrel, Buzzard or Peregrine,  it today not a single bird of prey was seen.