I woke with the dawn light, so climbed up to the roof top for an early morning birdwatch from the boat. It was so peaceful in the mellow morning sun, just quietly listening and watching the waking activity around me. A White Pelican lumbered slowly past at close range, a Tree Sparrow perched on a small dead branch of a nearby tree, whilst both Blue and Great Tits sang and twittered in the poplar trees beside the boat. Several Cuckoo flew over, calling constantly, and Black-crowned Night Heron and Purple Heron were both seen in flight before dropping silently into the golden bathed reeds. A colourful Roller traversed the agricultural field and Pygmy Cormorants and Glossy Ibis passed overhead.
We set off on another boat trip after breakfast, much warmer than yesterday, with the wind having dropped significantly. It was very relaxing, and we saw many more of the water species seen previously, enjoying the opportunity to gain experience in recognising these species in a range of postures and light. Along the riverbanks, a Yellow Wagtail shone brightly from the top of a small tree, its magnificent yellow breast heightened by the sunshine. A boldly patterned Hoopoe flew across the bushes, and Bee-eaters were everywhere, burnished bronze backs and iridescent blues shimmering in the light.
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| Yellow Wagtail |
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| Bee-eater |
We reached a small village where we alighted from the boat to explore the area. We were greeted by a small group of donkeys, presumably hoping to be fed. An area of pools and damp pasture greeted us , where leggy Black-winged Stilts, graceful Avocet, and Black-tailed Godwits in brick red summer plumage were feeding and roosting. Bernie spotted a distant Red-footed Falcon perched on the wire above the pools, and Bee-eaters sat on wires and burbled over our heads, giving brilliant views. Continuing on through the village, our guide Alex pointed out that some houses were built on stilts as the area is prone to flooding and there were many abandoned buildings from a long forgotten and never completed industrial scheme from Communist times. White Stork nests were everywhere, many with chicks, the local population clearly thriving.
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| Avocet |
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| White Storks |
A channel of water bubbled with tiny frogs and tadpoles, and white rumped House Martins and russet faced swallows swooped and chattered overhead. In the fields, a Northern Wheatear posed obligingly on a rock, and sparrows hopped busily among the grasses. A Hoopoe was spotted in flight then landed on a nearby roof before being joined by its partner, then disappearing together over the hedgerow. Some of the group stragglers were thrilled to find a family of Lesser Whitethroat, their first ever sighting of the species, although I personally missed this.
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Barn Swallows
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On the return trip we encountered yet more species. Three distant Greylag goose were seen over the reed tops, then we paused for coffee, steering into the reeds to ‘park’ without blocking the channel. This proved an excellent vantage point and within moments a Great Reed Warbler climbed to the top of a tall Reed and poured out its loud, jerky song as it swung in the breeze. Behind us Penduline Tits whistled and fleetingly appeared, but we were all distracted by the sudden appearance of a magnificent Bittern flying across the opposite reedbed, giving one of the best and longest views I’ve ever had. We continued on, travelling down a narrow channel with thick reeds surrounding the boat, very atmospheric. Eventually we arrived at our floating hotel for lunch and several hours of afternoon rest. From the roof we watched Hoopoes landed in the treetops and a Nightingale serenaded a relaxing musical accompaniment.
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| Great Reed Warbler |
The boat departed at four, and we were tugged along the somewhat breezy main channel, but from the vantage point of the roof we could see a considerable distance across the agricultural landscape. As we turned onto the old Danube route, the sparkling clear water was striking in contrast to the dirty muddy brown of the busy, commercial, man-made main channel. In this quieter waterway, a group of Black Terns flew over, and a colony of Whiskered Terns, danced and dived above the gently rippling water. After considerable manoeuvring and shouting between the tug boat and staff on board, the hotel was parked up for the night in a beautiful setting adjacent to a small copse with scattered reeds and overlooking opposite a substantial reedbed on the opposite riverbank. Here in the late afternoon light we watched Purple and Night herons in flight. Alex called a Little Bittern flying over the river - I caught a brief glimpse before it dropped into the reeds out of sight. Cuckoos chased each other around the fields and a Savi’s Warbler called constantly, but remained elusive amongst the extensive area of reeds. A Red-backed shrike sat on a nearby bush giving excellent views of its masked grey head and rufous back, while several Marsh Harriers hawked across the reedbeds. It was a lovely, relaxing end to another wonderful day.
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| Spot the Cuckoo… |
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