Thursday 9th November 2023: Tres Picos National Park and trails, Brazil

I awoke early, as light was breaking, and was immediately lured out of bed by the uplifting chorus of sound from outside the window. As I pulled back the curtains, I glimpsed a shaggy Blond-crested Woodpecker on the tree and a Slaty-breasted Wood Rail calling raucously from beneath the feeders. A perfect way to start the day! The nectar feeders hanging right outside our window were already drawing birds in to feed, with Black Jacobin and Bananaquit both present. 

From the terrace before breakfast, a Swallow-tailed Cotinga, both parakeets and a female Bare-throated Bellbird all showed well in the trees, with Rufous-bellied Thrushes hopping on the lawn below.

After breakfast we drove a short distance to Tres Picos National Park, a superb location where we were barely out of the bus in the car park before birds started appearing thick and fast. First up were some Long-tailed Tyrants which gave good scope views in a distant tree, while on a branch above a Crested Becard was busy around its nest. White-thighed Swallows circled overhead, and a Scaly-headed Parrot perched on a tree stump, its bright head markings clearly visible in the scope.

In the nearby bushes a Plain-winged Woodcreeper skirted up the trunk and a Rufous-browed Pepper-shrike and striking Grey-headed Atilla were spotted foraging amongst the foliage. An endearing Marmoset  clambered in another tree and across the car park a gorgeous and dainty Frilled Coquette darted about the canopy, nectaring on flowers. 

Grey-headed Attila

Suddenly, there was an influx of birds in the nearest clump of trees, with stunning views of White-barred Piculet, together with appearances from Spot-billed Toucanet, Buff-fronted Foliage Gleaner, Yellow-eared Woodpecker, and Streaked Xenops. An elegant Saw-billed Hermit shot across a pool, before briefly alighting on a dead tree allowing good, if fleeting views. 

White-barred Piculet

Eventually there was a lull in activity, so we ventured along a narrow trail taking us up into the forest in search of new species. Here we encountered  some rather more skulking forest dwellers, including Streak-capped, Star-throated and Rufous-winged AntWrens, and a very obliging Black-cheeked Gnateater which gave stonking views from just a few feet away. 

Black-cheeked Gnateater (Ashley Saunders)

We returned to the car park for a much-needed drink before setting off on another trail, encountering wonderfully colourful Green-headed and Red-necked Tanagers along the way. Arriving at a platform beside a magnificent ancient tree, a strange, slimy, creature on the tree trunk drew our attention, before retreating to a crevice in the trunk. Across the forest, a variety of Woodcreepers were located, including Lesser, Olivaceous and White-throated together with White-eyed and Black-capped Foliage Gleaners. A pair of Red-crowned Ant Tanagers chased each other through the trees giving excellent views and an Orange-bellied Euphonia perched and posed beautifully just above our heads.

Orange-bellied Euphonia

Green-headed Tanager

After lunch near the car park, we drove a short distance to the Cedae Trail. In the heat of the day, there was noticeably less activity than this morning. A Black-throated Grosbeak was noted, but the star bird was Blue Manakin which showed really well in the trackside scrub.

Blue Manakin (Ashley Saunders)

Our next stop was the Theodoro Trail. Again it was quality rather than quantity birding, with considerable neck-craning required. We waited some time for a Sharpbill which eventually showed well high in the canopy above us. Then another extensive canopy search, where I was the only one in the group to get a fleeting yet open view of our main target here, a Pale-browed Treehunter. By now it was 5pm, so after a full and very birdy  day we returned to the lodge, as satisfied customers!

Sharpbill (Ashley Saunders)