Wednesday 8th November 2023: Brazil Atlantic Rainforest 1

 We arrived at Rio early in the morning following an overnight flight of 11 hours, and were soon en route to our accommodation at Itororo Lodge, set in the heart of the forest, close to Nova Friburgo. As we sped through Rio, a few distant egrets, Neotropical Cormorants and Magnificent Frigatebirds were seen, together with plenty of Black Vultures resting on lampposts close to the busy road. After around an hour of driving we stopped for coffee, noting Blue and White Swallows nesting under the eaves of the adjacent building, a Yellow-headed Caracara perched atop a tall tree together with a Kiskadee and a pair of stunning, bright Saffron Finches perched on the wires.  Our birding adventure had begun…!

Brassy-breasted Tanagers

We continued on to our base at the beautiful Itororo Lodge,  arriving mid-morning to tea and cake on the terrace, where a feast of birds met our eyes.  The feeding tables were arrayed with fruit, attracting beautiful tanagers with brilliant, rich colours and wonderful descriptive names to match - Brassy-breasted, Burnished Buff and Golden-chevroned Tanagers to name a few. The nectar feeders were busy with iridescent hummingbirds hovering to drink; a Violet-capped Woodnymph,  numerous Black Jacobins and the stunning Brazilian Ruby, all species endemic to the Atlantic rainforest, with the Brazilian Ruby only found in Brazil. 

Plain Parakeet

Maroon-bellied Parakeet

In the gardens below the terrace a Swallow-tailed Cotinga perched in a tall tree and Rufous-bellied Thrushes hopped on the ground. Plain and Maroon-fronted Parakeets flew noisily in to raid the feeders and a Chestnut-crowned Becard arrived in a nearby avocado tree. 

Swallow-tailed Cotinga

After some time to unpack and rest, we set off for a short walk along the track. We had barely gone a few yards than a Green-winged Saltator was found in the canopy above, swiftly followed by a rather dull Planalto Tyrant. In the gardens of a nearby chalet we were able to rest on the veranda and scan the hillside for raptors, rewarded with great views of a Short-tailed Hawk passing overhead. In the adjacent trees a lovely Chestnut Euphonia gave good views and the first of many and varied foliage gleaners foraged in the bamboo. Suddenly, and to our local guide Andy’s delight,  a King Vulture soared majestically over the valley, only the second one seen here in 9 years.

King Vulture

We returned to the hotel for lunch and a siesta before setting out in the afternoon to explore the White Trail within the extensive lodge grounds, locating some attractive species which gave good if fleeting views, as is typical of many rainforest species. A Pin-tailed Mannakin was a stunner, followed by a gorgeous Golden Warbler and a Plain Antvireo. Some rotting fruit had been strewn on the path, and this provided a good food source for a resident Streamcreeper nesting in a nearby hole in the bank. A Rufous-capped Spine-tail and Orange-eyed Thornbird called noisily from a bush next to the path and everyone had excellent views of these colourful birds. Finally a White-throated Woodcreeper called and in response to playback from Andy flew into a close tree giving spectacular views as it crept up the trunk.

Pin-tailed Manakin (photo by Ashley)

Returning to the lodge for a short break, we set out again at dusk in search of a couple of nocturnal species  likely to be seen well in the clear, dry weather conditions. First up was an impressive Long-tailed Flycatcher, which apparently lands in exactly the  same spot every night for around 10 minutes. It posed for photos before disappearing into the forest darkness. A short distance away, a pair of  Rusty-barred Owls were called into the eucalyptus trees, where they perched giving their strange, gruff calls. 

What a brilliant and bird-filled start to the trip, with these night birds the icing on the cake!

Long-tailed Nightjar