Friday 24th May: Central Balkan Mountains

 It was a relief to wake to sunshine this morning,  as we congregated early for a pre-breakfast walk in the mountain beech forest. Parking close to a ski lift, we noted Mistle Thrush feeding on the ground at the top of the slope and heard calling Woodlarks. We strolled down the slope and walked a short distance into the forest, where we finally managed to pin down the ever elusive White-backed Woodpecker. Dimiter was skilled and speedy in getting the bird in the scope, where we all had cracking views as it drummed on a dead branch high above us. It was a wonderful sight. Returning to the bus, we were also pleased to find a Tree Pipit which sang from the top of a dead tree, showing beautifully against the clear blue sky.

White-backed Woodpecker

After breakfast and loading the van, we drove to the mountain ridge, where there were breathtaking, far-reaching views across the Balkan mountains. We were hoping for Water Pipits, but could not locate any. However we had decent views of Whinchat, Yellowhammer, Skylark and Meadow Pipit, plus more Ring Ouzels gathering food close to the car park. Distant views of Honey Buzzard were also enjoyed by the raptor lovers in the group.

Ring Ouzel, alpestris

The road down followed a snaking path across the mountains, gradually descending through slopes of mixed woodland to vast, flat valley plains used for rose oil production, giving more stupendous views.

After lunch, we took a walk by a stream, alongside traditional pastures with cattle sporting delightful cow bells, chiming gently as they chomped their way about the grass. We were hoping to find Grey-headed Woodpecker, which had been elusive all week. Some saw a Green Woodpecker, and we also had good views of a Syrian Woodpecker, but the Grey-headed remained a no-show. 

We lingered on the path for some time, enjoying the warm sunshine and watching lovely glider butterflies as they danced airily from one flowering shrub to the next. A Marsh Tit was found here and added to our holiday list, then on the track ahead of us, a few Serin were feeding, looking golden-yellow against the muddy path. 

Our final stop of the day was at Negovan, a small wetland area opposite some agricultural fields. Black-crowned Night Herons were roosting in the trees here, but the star bird was an obliging Savi’s Warbler which sat and poured out its reeling song just a few feet away from us. We tried for Corncrake on the fields, but were not able to locate any. Kestrel and Marsh Harriers were seen in the distance, but little else of note.

Savi’s Warbler

After an enjoyable and full day, we returned to the bus, heading directly to a smart Armenian restaurant, where we had a lovely celebratory meal, before moving on to our overnight accommodation close to Sofia.