Sunday 12th May: Bulgaria Day 1, Rila forest

 We arrived at Sofia around lunchtime, and after a bite to eat at a local gas station, we set off for a fairly long transfer up into the Rila mountains. The landscape here was reminiscent of Dartmoor, but on a grander scale, with bilberries lining the banks of the tracks, grassy open glades, and lush, green vegetation. There was a mixture of broadleaf and conifer woodlands, full of birch, pine and beech. 

The highlight of the drive was several Spotted Nutcrackers, a new species for me and what a cracker it is! Much more attractive than the books suggest, with a prominent white rump and a sprinkling of white spots. The flight was also distinctive, suggestive of a bird swimming butterfly stroke with its wings!

Spotted Nutcracker 

The altitude up here was almost 5000 feet, higher than Ben Nevis, and it was cold. I had clearly not packed appropriately for this weather! We drove to a high dam, at the edge of a large, sterile and birdless reservoir. On the concrete ballast we found a Grey Wagtail and Black Redstart, but little else.

Descending down from this high point we drove past an open meadow where we were delighted to find several Ring Ouzel of the race alpestris, showing pale fringes on the wings in comparison to the UK birds and pale vermiculations on its breast, really looking quite impressive. Also feeding amongst the wild flowers in the grass were at least four plump Bullfinches, looking suitably resplendent with their rich vermillion-red breasts, bold black caps and sturdy beaks.

Ring Ouzel alpestris

By the time we arrived at our accommodation it was raining and we were glad to find our lodge warm and cosy. A slow but rewarding start to our trip.