Wednesday 15th May: Eastern Rhodope Mountains

Having spent several nights in picturesque rural areas, with wonderful bedroom views, we were somewhat disappointed when we arrived last night in what appeared to be a lifeless urban industrial estate.  However, this turned out to be a great hotspot for pre-breakfast birding!

 Emerging from the hotel in early morning sunlight, we immediately heard the beautiful, lilting song of a Golden Oriole from the trees nearby, and it wasn’t long until it flittted across to land in a nearby Poplar, giving decent views for this notoriously ‘tricky to see’ species. In another tall tree at the back of the car park, a largish bird sat perched on a branch, silhouetted against the white sky. As the sun brightened enough to reveal its subtle tones of colour, we were able to identify this as a Lesser Grey Shrike, a great find. We soon spotted another elsewhere in the same tree, presumably a pair. Next a Syrian Woodpecker flew in; fortunately our guide Dimiter arrived just in time to confirm the identity, as we strained to get a clear view of its diagnostic facial markings. This flurry of activity was accompanied by a soundtrack of melodious Nightingales, bursting out song from several bushes,  a wheezing Greenfinch and a bill-clapping White Stork, which stood on a tall dead tree beside the hotel. A fabulous start to the day, and with so much excitement we were reluctant to tear ourselves away for breakfast.

After eating, a Red-rumped Swallow mingled amongst the hirundines as we congregated once more in the car park, before setting off for a day of birding. We drove through varied countryside, passing flower-rich grassland, punctuated with patches of scrub and wild briar roses, encountering some stunning, colourful species en route, including Roller, Red-backed Shrike and Bee-eaters. A Levant Sparrowhawk was spotted in flight from the bus, and landed in a tall tree, pausing to give decent scope views. Opposite, a small wetland area was frequented by hordes of Cormorants roosting in the trees, together with some Grey Heron and a Black Stork.

We continued our journey, arriving next at a rocky outcrop, where several Griffin Vultures were resting on the high rock ledges. Scopes were needed to scan the towering cliffs, but our efforts were rewarded - a Peregrine scoured the area from a prominent rock, whilst a Blue Rock Thrush was active nearby, posing intermittently on a large, flat rock. Crag Martins circled the rock face, then a distant Cirl Bunting appeared on the rock previously used by the rock thrush. Finally, I zoomed in on another tiny dot, which morphed into a superb Rock Bunting, its bold, striped head markings showing very well despite the distance and height.

Griffon Vulture

The rocks overlooked a wide river, where hirundines hawked for insects over the water, and Grey Herons and a Black Stork patrolled the water margins in search of prey.

We drove a short distance along the road, then took a productive walk through rough meadows scattered with scrubby bushes. Both Red-backed and Woodchat Shrikes were active here, obligingly perching on the top of bushes, allowing great views. Corn Buntings buzzed their tuneless song and chased each other across the meadows, abundant in this location. Above us, as the sun warmed the landscape, a kettle of vultures circled on the thermals, with an Egyptian Vulture amongst the throng. High above those, a Honey Buzzard was also found. Spanish Sparrows guarded a scrappy looking nest in a small bush, and as the track met with the road, a Little Ringed Plover was bizarrely spotted on an old concrete area. In a nearby field, a Woodlark was harassed by a Red-backed Shrike, causing it to hop and spread its wings as if feigning injury, presumably seeking to protect a nearby nest. It was fascinating to witness this distraction behaviour. Next we wandered up a farm track where a Turtle Dove purred from a telephone wire, and a Middle-spotted Woodpecker suddenly flew in to cling to a telegraph pole, revealing its striking red crown.

Spanish Sparrow

Woodchat Shrike

After lunch, we slowly travelled back towards our accommodation, stopping several times in search of further birds. We passed derelict buildings in the villages, remnants of old rural lives, alongside attractive red-roofed houses. The pastoral scenery was green and fresh, with gently rounded hills. At a roadside stop we found a low sandstone cliff with small man-made caves, possibly used for storage in years gone by. Tree Sparrows and a stunning Black-headed Bunting with a gleaming buttercup breast perched on the fence lines and a Black-headed Wagtail also flew over, alighting on the swaying crops. In another field several White Storks paced the area, bills down, probing for food.

Our last stop of the day was beside a dam wall, where a pair of Kestrel huddled against the stone wall. In a scrubby hedgerow beside the reservoir, an Eastern Olivaceous Warbler was very vocal, and eventually showed reasonably well as it flitted from bush to bush. Along the track, a Subalpine Warbler sang from a tree, and a pair of Sombre Tits passed through, although neither gave more than fleeting glimpses. Also of note here, were the constant loud calls of Marsh Frogs.