Wednesday 22nd May: Cape Kaliakra

For our pre-breakfast walk, we headed round the bay, finding Cormorants on the harbour arm, and below the cliffs, where we were entranced by swathes of Alpine Swifts soaring powerfully yet gracefully though the air, their constant chatter echoing against the rocks, not a continuous scream like the common Swifts, but a series of shorter, twittering screeches. They were mesmerising to watch against the towering white cliffs, with some disappearing into narrow crevices in the rock face. Beside the track we were pleased to discover a couple of Pied Wheatears on the fences, a new species for the trip and as we returned, a fledgling Black Redstart was sat on the steps, showing a prominent yellow gape. Also of note were plenty of feral cats and dogs, making use of the many abandoned buildings around the beach area. Also seen were Greenfinch, Goldfinch, White Wagtail, House and Spanish Sparrows and, shock horror, Red-backed Shrike!!

The official birding today started at Kaliakra cliffs, where we strolled slowly along the path to the headland, noting several Shags and a few Black-throated Divers on the waters below. Suddenly a small group of terns came into view, speeding over the water. Clive and Jim thought possibly Sandwich Terns, as they were quite large, but I thought I could see orange bills. Bernie came to the rescue when he shouted ‘Caspian Terns!’ Around the ruins, there were several Pied Wheatears and a Northern Wheatear, together with a Lesser Grey Shrike and Hobby and Kestrel over. As we strolled through the open air restaurant, (there was no evidence of this when we visited in February!) plenty of Swallows were flying amongst the awning beams. It was warm and sunny at the headland, so we rested for some time here, taking in the scenery. Some of us wandered down some stone steps, where many people had thrown coins onto the cliff ledge, many now coated in green copper. Helen gave Carol and I a coin to throw. Needless to say my throwing skills have not improved since my school days, my coin embarrassingly failing to even reach the cliff edge!! On the boulders below, roosting Yellow-legged Gulls and Cormorants, stood out against the dark rock, their large webbed feet being particularly striking as we looked down from above.

Pied Wheatear

Cormorants

Next we headed towards the Kaliakra gorge, but stopped on the way at ‘Sweaty Nicola’ farm, where this time we immediately found the Laughing Doves resting on the telephone wire, although they sadly disappeared before we managed to get out of the bus. 

At the foot of the gorge, we found a Great Reed Warbler, and on the sandstone cliff, plenty of Bee-eaters, some gathered on a dead tree, a kaleidoscope of colour, with up to eleven birds at a time, others soaring around some hives at the top of the cliff. Also of interest was a Golden Jackal, which we watched for some time as it slowly worked its way down the slope. 

Finally, at the beach, our star bird of the day, a stupendous Little Bittern, skulking motionless in the  reeds just a few feet away from us.

Little Bittern