Sunday 29th June 2025: Cuiaba and Pantanal, Brazil Day 1

We started with a whimper, our first bird out of the airport being a feral pigeon! However, things quickly picked up, with a Great Kiskadee and a Chalk-browed Mockingbird both posing on a lamppost as our suitcases were put in black sacks, in preparation for the dusty panteneria highway ahead. Having arrived early in the morning, we went straight to the Amazon Hotel for breakfast. Unexpectedly, a Cattle Tyrant was sat on a wire outside the hotel, which seemed rather strange for such an urban environment. After eating, several of us gathered behind the hotel, where after some debate we called the circling swifts as Neotropical (or Fork-tailed) Swifts, then we also found and identified Grey-breasted Martins soaring over the hotel rooftop.

As it was peak time for birding, our guide Roberto decided to maximise our opportunities by visiting a local park in Cuiaba rather than setting straight out on our journey towards the Pantanal, and we quickly started to build our list. In the car park Roberto found Yellow-chevroned Parakeets foraging noisily in the bushes, then a distant Picazuro Pigeon which showed well in the scope, with lacy white scalloped edges to the wings. Next we had a beautiful Ruddy Ground Dove in a tree, the first of several during the day. Monk Parakeets, with white bellies, were picked out in the centre of another tree, as we set off into the park.

Moving along the path we enjoyed a flurry of activity, when a pair of Short-crested Flycatchers flew into a leafy acacia, a Rufous- bellied Thrush hopped along the ground and a Southern Rough-winged Swallow flew over. A Peach-fronted Parakeet, House Sparrow, looking somewhat peachy on its belly, and Pale vented Pigeon all appeared in the same area in quick succession.

Short-crested Flycatcher

Amongst the taller trees a gorgeous Amazonian Motmot, with turquoise blue crown appeared briefly, spotted by Sam. Arriving at a marshy pool, a Southern Screamer was partially obscured but noticeably a huge bird. Wattled Jacana, with juveniles, were foraging amongst the water chestnuts and a small group of rusty-winged Southern Lapwing gathered at the centre. A single Muscovy Duck, possibly hybrid as it showed some white, skulked behind a bush where Chopi Blackbirds, showing a glossy bluish sheen moved about the branches. Right at the back of the pool I spotted a single Purple Gallinule, a rich purple with colourful face and bill.

Continuing along the path, we found a beautifully marked Buff-breasted Wren, highly mobile in a tangle of vines, but giving clear, albeit brief, views. A Rufous Hornero was more obliging, perching right out in the open. A Bluish-grey Saltator gave obscure views as it foraged in a tree, the peachy buff belly and blue-grey back seen well, but the head and throat largely obscured by branches. In the branches overhead, fluffy and endearing Black-tailed Marmosets watched our progress.

Black-tailed Marmoset

At a more open pool we encountered a Least Grebe, a new bird for most of the group, with a brief sighting of a Striated Heron in flight. Phil spotted a stunning Vermillion Flycatcher, astonishingly bright in colour, at the centre of a small tree beside the path. Elsewhere, a large strutting parrot caused some debate, eventually being identified as a White-eyed Parakeet, the combination of red shoulders and facial markings being key identification features.

Time had passed quickly, and we were expected at our hotel for lunch, so we left the park and set off along the Transpantaneira highway. We stopped at a promising pool of water, and scanned with scopes, soon finding a good variety of birds. Lanky-legged Black-headed Stilts tottered at the edges and a few Muscovy Duck, showing prominent red warts on their faces, swam lazily on the water. A flock of Black-bellied Whistling Duck were stood at the back of the water, with a single White-faced Whistling Duck amongst them.  A Little Blue Heron was quite distant but seen well in the scopes. Southern Lapwings roamed the grassy margins by the water, and a White- headed Marsh-Tyrant perched on the branches of a small bush. 

On the fenceline, a Snail Kite perched, then flew out, before returning and eating a snail. Nearby, a group of White-winged Swallows were sat on the fence too, while in the next field some distant Rhea were feeding and a Southern Crested Caracara stood below a wide, leafy tree.

Back at the pool, a Snowy Egret stood in the water, with yellow facial patch showing clearly, and differentiating it from our more familiar Little Egret, which is not found in Brazil. A Limpkin and Cocoi Heron posed at the back of the pool, and we had better views of Southern Screamer here too. A Turkey Vulture in flight passed over the water, its two-tone wings helping aid identification. 

Snowy Egret

With so many birds seen this had proved a worthwhile stop. We hadn’t travelled far before we paused again, for a fabulous pair of Hyacinth Macaw canoodling in a palm tree, huge, purple birds with bold yellow eyes and bill. Several Thrush-like Wrens in a nearby bush, with a pale supercilium, and striking song were an added bonus, before we reboarded and continued our journey. From the bus we began to get a sense of the abundance of Pantanal birdlife, with a congregation of Cattle Egret and Wood Stork in a swampy area, and mixed egrets foraging in the fields nearby.

Hyacinth Macaw

Soon we arrived at Piuval, where as we turned into the drive, we were assailed by so many fantastic birds that we were late arriving for lunch, despite constant cajoling by our guide that we must move on.

We saw stunning Red-legged Sereima, giving fantastic views close to the vehicle. Then Bare-faced Ibis, with red bill and legs,  foraging in the trackside pools. Smooth-billed Anis flew across, but were not seen well. Guira Cuckoos were everywhere, but often hidden as they foraged in the grassy vegetation on the ground. We found huge Great-billed Terns, fabulous birds with an enormous yellow bill, loafing on a small sandy bank beside the pool. Also around the pool, were several Caiman and Capybara.  A Pied Plover flew in, not close, but giving clear enough views . It would’ve been nice to scope such a strikingly handsome bird, but lunch was waiting. Then a Yellow-headed Vulture landed right in front of us, delaying us yet again. 

Red-legged Seriema

As we finally ate our lunch, overlooking the extensive grounds, the fabulous birding continued. A group of four Buff-breasted Ibis roamed on the marsh, later wandering unperturbed around the grounds close to our accommodation, and a Great Egret stood elegant and tall at the water’s edge. A Palm Tanager fleetingly appeared by the dining room, a rather dull-coloured bird, then a Yellow-billed Cardinal with stunning colours flew into a nearby bush, and began to feed on the lawn right in front of us. Rufous Hornero, Rufous-bellied Thrush and Cattle Tyrant all frequented the grounds and continued to do so throughout our stay, enabling us to become very familiar with these lovely species. 

We took a short walk around the grounds, and suddenly noticed numerous Nothura’s Nighthawk roosting on the marshy ground, well camaflouged, but strikingly beautiful in flight, when delicate white spotted wings were revealed. Several Plumbeous Ibis, large, leaden-grey birds were perched in a dead tree, and a huge Jabiru Stork flew over, with distant Wood Stork looking small in comparison. A group of Southern-crested Caracara flew low overhead, whilst a Cocoi Heron posed in a far pool. Several Snail Kites were feeding on the marshes, and a Great Black Hawk, huge, with a striking white rump, landed in a tree. An  Apolomado Falcon was seen briefly as it it was chased off.  Giant Cowbirds foraged on the ground near the cattle, and several Rhea meandered across. Tanagers perched on the wire, and a Savannah Hawk with stunning rufous colours, perched motionless on a close post. 

Nothura nighthawk

Greater Rhea

After some downtime to unpack and relax, we set out mid afternoon on a safari vehicle, to continue birding, and hopefully find some mammals. A Ringed Kingfisher rested on a wire, and several Campo Flicker flew between the trees. A Black-backed Water Tyrant perched on a gate, diving sporadically into a tiny muddy puddle, and a Crested Oropendola was seen flying past. We were thrilled to encounter a Giant Anteater carrying its baby on its back, then later, another fast moving adult which lolloped at surprising speed, swathing its way through the long grass. Elsewhere, we encountered a small group of Tapirs quietly feeding, allowing us to drive very close, and seemingly unfazed by our presence. Finally, returning towards the hotel, we encountered a pair of noisy Choco Chachalacas running along the ground, a climbing Great Rufous Woodcreeper, and our last bird of the day, a Toco Toucan in flight.

Giant Anteater

Tapir

With a tally of almost eighty birds, as well as some wonderful mammals, it had been a fantastic start to our holiday.