My day got off to a great start with two Toco Toucan flying over the flotel, fiery orange bills glowing magnificently in the early morning light. Behind the boat we also had cracking views of a Fawn-breasted Wren, almost identical to the Buff-breasted Wren seen earlier in the week, but separable by range.
Departing the flotel for Porto Joffre after breakfast, Dave spotted a Crane Hawk which flew about the trees, showing a rufous, barred tail and striking yellow eye. It landed, then lunged its claws into a hole in the tree in search of food. Soon we stopped again for a gathering of Piping Guans, Chestnut-bellied Guan and female Bare-faced Curassow, all feeding on clay in a small clearing on the muddy bank.
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| Crane Hawk |
At the landing bay, we watched a Rufous Hornero carrying food to its clay like, spiralled nest. Then, just about 100 yards along the road we were delayed again by a Lineated Woodpecker pecking away at the top of a tall wooden post.
We had departed early to allow time to bird the roadside marshes and pools on our way, stopping several times where noteworthy birds were seen. At the first site we had a good variety of typical marshland species, including several Limpkin which showed well, perching on the top of bushes and calling loudly. I finally managed to spot a Bananaquit, which had somehow eluded me for several days, and a pair of Yellow-chinned Spinetail chased each other around in the low-lying vegetation. Elsewhere, we noted several now familiar species, including Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Black-backed Water Tyrant, Yellow-headed Vulture, Southern Lapwing, Greater Thornbird and Yellow-lored Tody Flycatcher, all foraging around the trees and bushes beside the road.
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| Limpkin |
A second marshland stop gave us Roseate Spoonbills, spooning from side to side with their specialist feeding action. A Southern Screamer perched up obligingly on the top of a bush, and while the photographers were busy, a Rusty-collared Flycatcher and Masked Gnatcatcher popped into view. Elsewhere a group of Smooth-billed Anis were sat in the tree. Also of note was a nearby Green Kingfisher, notably smaller than the similarly plumaged Amazon. Finally, Roberto cracked the whip, and insisted we really must start our journey.
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| Southern Screamer |
Soon we paused at a small copse, where our guides had located a family of impressive Great Horned Owls roosting together high in the tree, staring down at us with mild curiosity. Nearby, a Greater Thornbird was seen entering its rough, twiggy nest, then our local guide, Branco, found a beautiful bees' nest, an artistic masterpiece with neat layers of honeycomb, and as we studied this a Little Woodpecker landed on a small dead tree, giving great views. Next a huge Black-collared Hawk landed just a few feet away, where it sat on a horizontal branch and devoured its catch.
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| Great Horned Owl, juvenile |
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| Bee’s nest |
We just paused twice more on our journey, for a group of Hyacinth Macaws, then our first Green Ibis of the trip, a real treat, with glossy green neck, green bill and green legs, and dark feathers, reminding me somewhat of the wicked witch of the west in the Wizard of Oz! This was the last ibis to target on our list, and a cracking bird.
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| Green Ibis |
Stopping for lunch at a Mato Grosso riverside lodge, we enjoyed watching a variety of species coming to the feeders, including glossy Shiny Cowbirds, with an almost blue sheen, and Giant Cowbirds, much bigger with longer tails and an obvious white eye. Katherine spotted a Ferruginous Pygmy Owl sat in a tree in front of the restaurant, and we all had excellent scope views, with passing tourists delighted to share in the excitement. A Purplish Jay flew into the tree, but never showed well. Baywings, mixed doves and Saffron Finches added to the mix, with an abundance of birds on show. Elsewhere in the grounds Thrush-like Wrens were active in the treetops and a pair of Rufous Hornero duetted with lifted wings.
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| Ferruginous Pygmy Owl |
Continuing our journey, we encountered a Tiger Rat snake crawling across the road. The photographers moved in for a close up, but the snake clearly felt threatened, and as Tim turned from taking several shots, it suddenly lunged aggressively forwards. Apparently harmless, this still felt like a narrow escape, and hopefully a lesson learned!
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| Tiger Rat Snake |
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A bit too close!
We arrived at Pousada Alegre late afternoon, and stopped for some impromptu birding in the lodge grounds when Roberto spotted a Red-crested finch from the bus. We alighted and all had a decent view, although unfortunately it didn’t hang around for long. An Undulated Tinamou could be heard calling nearby, and by returning the call we managed to lure it onto the road and watch as it crossed and wandered off down a small sandy ridge. In a small copse, a Red billed Scythebill was very mobile, and partially obscured by branches, so the only view of the whole bird was in flight. A distant pair of Grey-headed Tanagers appeared in a tree, and a silent Fuscous Flycatcher perched deep in the undergrowth. Our final bird in this spot was a beautiful Golden-green Woodpecker with a striking and distinct head pattern. |
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| Red-crested Finch |
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| Undulated Tinamou |
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| Golden-green Woodpecker |
As dusk began to fall, we passed a beautiful open marshland area, with plentiful Caimans lurking unobtrusively in the vegetation and a throng of waterbirds, including many herons and egrets, Wood Stork and Jabiru, plus a small flock of Spoonbills looking truly magnificent, with the evening light accentuating the beautiful pink hues of their plumage.
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