We met early again this morning at 5.45 for another walk around the grounds before breakfast, our last morning at this lodge, reconnecting with many species that had already become familiar to us around the gardens. We noted a flock of Baywing were somewhat Dunnock-like in their behaviour and colouration. Dave spotted an Epaulette Oriole flitting amongst the branches of a small tree, with the tiny epaulettes, very difficult to spot, but just visible in certain poses. In a small tree a Green-barred Woodpecker clung tenaciously to a trunk, tapping in search of food. But probably the highlight of the morning, was the spectacle of thousands of egrets passing over the reserve, wave after wave of flocks flying low over the fields as they left their overnight roosting sites.
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| Green-barred Woodpecker |
We departed from our accommodation after breakfast, but there was more birding to be had from the entrance track, where a field with many termite mounds proved very productive. A Grassland Sparrow was new here, as was Picui Ground Dove, feeding on the ground. There were plenty of Saffron Finches around, then Roberto spotted a White-rumped Monjita, which landed on one of the mounds, closely followed by a Lineated Woodpecker working its way up a trunk. Several Purplish Jays flew into the nearby trees and a Pale-vented Pigeon was also seen from the track.
After this burst of activity, we set out along the dusty Transpanteneira highway towards our next destination, but we had barely started when we were stopping again, with the excitement of a Capped Heron sat in a tree. Stopping the bus, we spent several minutes watching this lovely bird as it moved amongst the roadside trees.
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| Capped Heron |
We made several more impromptu stops when something of interest caught Roberto’s eye. A melee of birds feeding in the bushes ahead of us included a flock of Chopi blackbirds. Our local guide Branco picked out three Screaming Cowbirds, which he identified initially by song. At the roadside a mixed flock of Baywings and Saffron Finches moved along the fenceline, whilst a gathering of Scaled, Picui and Ruddy Doves at close range enabled us to study their detailed plumage features. Yellow-billed Cardinals appeared in the roadside bushes, and a Cattle Tyrant and Tropical Kingbird, affectionately known as TK, posing alongside each other on the wire fence, gave us a brilliant opportunity to compare and contrast their different features, with the more upright stance, intense colour saturation and notched tail of the TK being pointed out as key identification features. This masterclass proved useful as we encountered these species elsewhere on our trip. Another useful lesson followed the appearance of a Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, with pale, rufous tinged primaries distinguishing this from the more common Turkey Vulture, alongside the differing facial markings, which may not be easily seen in flight.
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| Baywing |
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| Scaled Dove |
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| Tropical Kingbird |
From the road, we slowed for good views of our first Black-crowned Night Herons and Neotropical Cormorants, then again to observe some Peach-fronted Parakeets sat on the wire above a termite nest, where they were nesting. We arrived at our next destination at South Wild Lodge in time for lunch, immediately noting a mixture of Ground and Scaled Doves in a feeding flock on the grass, whilst more individualistic White-tipped Doves pecked at the grasses elsewhere.
After lunch we had some free time to unload or explore the garden before a boat trip along the river. In the scrubby vegetation beside the water we observed some Red-billed Cardinals, Thrush-like Wren, Tropical Kingbird, and Rufous Cachalote, together with a long-tailed bird which disappeared before we could properly identify it. A small Tody Flycatcher flitted in a nearby small bush, whilst on the other side of the river Dave spotted a Solitary Black Cacique, with large pale bill, and a Pale-crested Woodpecker foraging on a tangled vine. A very tame Jabiru then came and stood just a few feet away from us, so close I could take a decent picture with my mobile phone!
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| Rufous Cachalote |
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| Jabiru |
We loaded into two boats for a wonderful trip along the river, a very serene, restful experience, which once again turned up some fantastic birds. Several Rufescent Tiger-Heron were seen along the vegetated banks, together with Giant Anis, showing a striking light eye and with beautiful blue tinged plumage. A pair of Black-collared Hawks in the taller trees appeared to be following us along the river, and we eventually realised why, when our driver produced some fish, which he threw into the river for them to catch. This was an impressive sight, as was their act of mating, which took place shortly afterwards. They are magnificent, charismatic birds.
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| Black-collared Hawk |
Roadside Hawks - or riverside hawks, as Roberto joked, - were also easily seen here, but some birds required harder work. Roberto heard the song of the Mato Grosso Antbird, a real skulker, which eventually showed pretty well as it moved surreptitiously through the dense vegetation. A Lesser Kiskadee was called, difficult for our untrained eyes to distinguish from the more common Great Kiskadee, then we had excellent views of a Rufous tailed Jacamar clung to a tall stem close to the water’s edge. Several Anhinga were spotted along the river, but were quite shy, disappearing whenever we approached too close. A Giant Black Kite flew over, then Roberto spotted a Gnatcatcher, a beautiful bluish grey bird with a strikingly long tail. As we sped back towards the hotel, a Ringed Kingfisher bobbing gently as it perched in a bush, followed us back, I suspect like the hawks, hoping to be fed by the boatman, but today he was out of luck!
Our final activity of the day was a stakeout at a hide for an Ocelot, where we were required to be silent. With a squeaky plastic chair, this was hugely challenging - clearly I am a great fidget! Sadly this was a no-show, so my efforts were in vain, but it was a relief when the decision to abandon the watch finally came!!!
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