We had a slightly later start this morning, with breakfast at six followed by a walk around the lodge grounds. Opening the door to our room, a pair of Bare-faced Curassow and three Chestnut- bellied Guans were loitering near the pool providing a great photo opportunity and stunning views. A flock of Monk Parakeets were busy feeding on the grass, together with White-tipped Doves. A large Ringed Kingfisher sat watching the river, then a squawking pair of Hyacinth Macaws flew across and landed in a eucalyptus tree, observed by a group of three Southern Crested Caracaras.
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| Bare-faced Curassow (Sean Moore) |
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Chestnut-bellied Guan
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I decided to climb the observation tower for a good look at the nesting Jabirus, and enjoyed a serene view of the river, but could not locate any eggs or chicks beneath the adult bird at rest on its nest.
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| Jabiru Tower |
Back on the ground, we walked a short distance along an open track. A twiggy Thornbird nest was found in a tree, together with its owner, a Greater Thornbird with bright yellow eye. In the reeds close by we had excellent views of a beautiful Chotoy Spinetail with lovely throat markings, and Sean felt this was our mystery bird from yesterday. A pair of Rufous-fronted Thornbirds with a rufous cap and pale supercilium then appeared, a lovely trio of new species for the trip.
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| Greater Thornbird |
Soon it was time to set off along the Transpantaneira highway once again. An Amazon Kingfisher was seen from the bus then at a roadsie toilet stop we found a few more species - a Black-backed Water Tyrant was seen from the designated ladies ‘toilet’, but not by the men! Then we all saw a Rusty-collared Seedeater, looking rather like a female stonechat as it perched on a swaying reed. A very mobile hummingbird, after much debate and photographic evidence, was eventually identified as a Glittering Gem. It sported a red bill and bronzy tail, and is apparently the most common ‘hummer’ in the Pantanal.
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| Rusty-collared Seedeater |
We continued our journey, finding other highlights from the bus as we travelled. A Marsh Deer, which stood motionless as it stared directly at us, was a beautiful creature, with enormous ‘ears like satellites’ as Dave eloquently described it. A huge Southern Screamer was seen in flight, chased by a pair of Hyacinth Macaws. Amongst the marshy vegetation, a White-headed Water Tyrant stood out, then a Scarlet- headed Blackbird with young was seen, followed by a pair of Black-capped Donacobius, giving a tail flicking display from the top of a small bush. Finally, we were very excited to observe a Giant Otter, swimming in a lily pond by the road, probably a youngster striking out in search of its own territory, as they are generally sociable creatures. Eventually we arrived at Port Joffre, where we boarded a small boat to transfer us at speed to our flotel close to the Cuiaba River for lunch.
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| Marsh Deer |
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| Black-capped Donacobius |
In the afternoon, we set out again on the small boat, for a trip along the river in search of birds and Jaguar. But not before stonking views of an iridescent Rufous-tailed Jacamar clinging to a mooring rope behind the boat, and a juvenile Rufescent Tiger-Heron lurking on the bank just feet away from us, moving furtively from cover to the water then back again to skulk beneath a small bush.
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| Rufous-tailed Jacamar |
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| Rufescent Tiger-Heron, juvenile |
We didn’t have to wait long to find the Jaguars, which had previously been located and news shared by radio, and when we arrived there were already lots of other boats present. We were quickly pointed in the direction of a female Jaguar with her offspring, probably around one year old. Standing at the tip of the boat one at a time, we were able to see the two cats lying on their backs with paws in the air, looking very chilled, then repositioning slightly, with one cat licking the ears of the other, making a charming scene. After some time, we left them in peace, to do some birding.
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| Jaguar |
Flitting amongst the vegetation alongside the river we found a few species, including another Donacobius then a pair of Unicolored Blackbirds, the female seen first, a gorgeous bird with yellow breast dark lores and rusty back, far more attractive than the all black male. Nearby a male Rusty-collared Seedeater showed beautiful colours as it perched on top of a thin stem. As we drifted down the river, we were struck by the sheer volume of birds, with masses of egrets, rising from the reedy margins as we approached and the air a mesmerising swirl of egrets, with Cocoi and Night Herons perched in the treetops and both Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers heading purposefully along the river. A few Rough-winged Swallows hawked for insects over the water and both Yellow-rumped and Solitary Caciques were spotted in the branches. Finally, as we turned to head back towards our flotel in the fading light, we were accompanied by many Band tailed Nighthawks dancing over the river, and finished with a wonderful Apolodoro Falcon as our last bird of the day as it flew into a nearby tree. It was a magical end to another superb day.
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Unicoloured Blackbird
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| Great Egrets on River Cuiaba |
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Our Flotel
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