Window to Wildlife

 Our last birding day of the holiday, and we set out to explore some local marshes. At the first, we wandered along a track out through the reed bed, stopping at a bank with views across the water. A distant warbler could be seen on the reeds, probably Reed Warbler, but too distant to be sure. Bernie then spotted a Bearded Reedling as it sped past to land out of sight in the nearby reeds. We moved a little further along the track, where a Water Rail could be heard calling. A Lesser Spotted Woodpecker was seen briefly, however, we spied a hole in the tree from where it had flown, and as we passed some chirruping birds could be heard inside. A couple of Bearded Tits then appeared in the reeds very close, allowing us all excellent views. A Hobby passed low overhead, and as we returned to the bus the Lesser Spotted Woodpecker showed again, giving much better views. After a short drive, we paused at a gentle slope beside the road, to look for Sombre Tit. Initially there was no sign, and the

 It was a relief to wake to sunshine this morning,  as we congregated early for a pre-breakfast walk in the mountain beech forest. Parking close to a ski lift, we noted Mistle Thrush feeding on the ground at the top of the slope and heard calling Woodlarks. We strolled down the slope and walked a short distance into the forest, where we finally managed to pin down the ever elusive White-backed Woodpecker. Dimiter was skilled and speedy in getting the bird in the scope, where we all had cracking views as it drummed on a dead branch high above us. It was a wonderful sight. Returning to the bus, we were also pleased to find a Tree Pipit which sang from the top of a dead tree, showing beautifully against the clear blue sky. White-backed Woodpecker After breakfast and loading the van, we drove to the mountain ridge, where there were breathtaking, far-reaching views across the Balkan mountains. We were hoping for Water Pipits, but could not locate any. However we had decent views of Whinchat

 This was the last morning at our hotel in Kavarna, and we savoured our last walk to the beach, enjoying again the aerial displays of the Alpine Swifts, and finding another Pied Wheatear. From our balcony, our Golden Oriole sat on his branch and fluted a farewell song while the House Martins and Red-rumped Swallows dashed and dived around us.  Pied Wheatear We drove today towards the Central Balkan Mountains, passing roads lined with Poppies and Larkspur. We stopped en route at an estuarine woodland, where we found Spotted Flycatcher, Short-toed Treecreeper, Chaffinch and Greenfinch. Blackcap and Middle -spotted Woodpecker were also heard. At a small wetland nearby we enjoyed the antics of Marsh Frogs, cheeks bulging as they made  their loud,  distinctive calls.  Marsh Frog We stopped at a service station for lunch, where our first Lesser Whitethroat of the trip called from the roadside vegetation, then flew over into nearby scrub. Not the greatest of views, but a new holiday tick!  Co

For our pre-breakfast walk, we headed round the bay, finding Cormorants on the harbour arm, and below the cliffs, where we were entranced by swathes of Alpine Swifts soaring powerfully yet gracefully though the air, their constant chatter echoing against the rocks, not a continuous scream like the common Swifts, but a series of shorter, twittering screeches. They were mesmerising to watch against the towering white cliffs, with some disappearing into narrow crevices in the rock face. Beside the track we were pleased to discover a couple of Pied Wheatears on the fences, a new species for the trip and as we returned, a fledgling Black Redstart was sat on the steps, showing a prominent yellow gape. Also of note were plenty of feral cats and dogs, making use of the many abandoned buildings around the beach area. Also seen were Greenfinch, Goldfinch, White Wagtail, House and Spanish Sparrows and, shock horror, Red-backed Shrike!! The official birding today started at Kaliakra cliffs, where

 Some great balcony birdwatching this morning - ‘our’ Oriole was again sat on its favourite branch singing when I opened the door, and Turle Doves purred, although couldn’t be seen. House Martins and Swallows filled the air, and we observed the martins using a nest on our balcony. From here, I saw a pair of screeching Jays fly into the conifer and Greenfinches wheezed from the top. We took a walk to the headland, where the highlight was a gathering of House Martin, drinking from a puddle on the ground, their nests lining a derelict building nearby, still providing accommodation for some!  House Martin We set off after breakfast for the wetlands, pausing at the roadside when Dimiter heard an Ortolan Bunting. This was soon scoped as it sat on the telephone wire overhead, quite a colourful bird with rusty red breast and yellow moustache contrasting with a greyish head.  We soon arrived at the Durankulak wetlands and lake, where our target bird was the Paddyfield Warbler. Unfortunately thi

 Another transfer day, with birding en route. At the first roadside stop, we had some excellent views of an Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler, although it was quite mobile, crossing from one side of the road to the other, often singing from the high canopy, but occasionally pausing to sing from an open branch. Unsurprisingly, we also found a Red-backed Shrike here, and just a short walk along the road produced a singing Cirl Bunting in plain view. House Martins and Bee-eaters were in the sky, and a Booted Eagle drifted over. Eastern Bonelli’s Warbler Red-backed Shrike, female We paused again by some agricultural fields offering suitable habitat for Ortolan Bunting, but failed to get a confirmed sighting, despite a likely suspect on a distant bush, which annoyingly dropped from view a little too quickly. Continuing our journey, the next stop was near to a known Wryneck nest site, but maintaining a safe distance so as to avoid disturbance. We could hear a bird calling several times from various

 This was a high bird count day, as we explored many of the wetlands and salt pans we had visited in winter, but this time the huge numbers of ducks had disappeared, to be replaced by summer visitors. As always, we started the day with our morning walk, managing to explore a scrubland area a little further along the beach. Species seen were similar to yesterday, with hirundines coming down right onto the beach. We also found a Spotted Flycatcher, had great views of an Eastern Olivaceous Warbler that appeared in the open branches of a tree, and noted a Crested Lark foraging on a dusty track beside the road. Our first stop was Lake Vaya, where the highlight was a Penduline Tit nest, suspended above the rushes close to the path. We were able to observe the parents coming and going to the nest, climbing the reeds or resting on a tree as they searched for food for their young. Herons were mobile around the lake with both Squacco and Night Herons seen in flight, and Purple Herons skulking am

 As always, we started the day with a pre-breakfast walk, this time, in a new location, taking a stroll to the nearby beach. We passed plenty of House and Spanish Sparrows chattering in the roadside trees on our way. On the sea were just a few Cormorants and gulls, but Swifts and Martins swept low over the beach, seeking early insects, and of course a Red-backed Shrike was perched on a low tree by the path.  A drive to the Strandza mountains soon had us locating a Semi-collared Flycatcher which was singing as we got out of the bus. Although mobile, and favouring the high branches, we had some decent views of both the singing male, then a female. Soon the nest hole was located, and the scope was trained on it, and with quiet patience, enabled superb views for everyone in the group. We walked a short distance along the forested road, adding Nuthatch, Great Tit and Chiffchaff to our tally.  Semi-collared Flycatcher Lunch was taken at the village of Kosti (or ‘cushtie’ as Jim nicknamed it,

 Once again we had a brilliant morning of car park birding, the highlight today being four Spotted Flycatchers, parachuting back and forth from the bushes. Goldfinches were busy feeding young, the fledged birds fluttering their wings as they begged for food. A superb Nightingale landed in a small tree, before unexpectedly dropping to the ground of the vegetable garden, where it posed right out in the open, showing its rich rufous colouration and wide tail. The ubiquitous Red-backed Shrike was present, and the regular Syrian Woodpecker, which clearly had a territory here. House Martins filled the air, a Blue Tit flew in, and a Grey Heron drifted over. The White Stork continued to sit on its tree stump and a  Greenfinch song provided musical accompaniment to the bird-filled scene. Today was primarily a transfer day to the Black Sea coast, with planned birding stops on the way. The first of these was again briefly at the dam, ostensibly to look for Cirl Bunting, which Clive had not yet se

 We started our day beside a small road lined with small fields and scrub, where the birds came through thick and fast, giving a thrilling session of birding. Red-backed Shrikes were prolific here, posing frequently on fencelines and atop bushes and small trees. On the field, a pair of Lesser Grey Shrikes were foraging amongst the grasses, their pale breasts suffused with a warm, pinkish flush. From the hedgerows, Barred Warbler were heard singing and calling, initially deep in the vegetation, but eventually coming up into less dense branches and showing very well for everyone. A Black Woodpecker flew across the road, landing atop a tall tree, a huge, crow-like bird in flight, with red crown evident in the scope. A Turtle Dove purred from the treetop, a Common Whitethroat scratched its song and a gorgeous Roller with stunning turquoise and rufous wings flew nonchalantly overhead.  Red-backed Shrike Black Woodpecker As we lingered here, a particularly bright Black-headed Bunting posed f

Having spent several nights in picturesque rural areas, with wonderful bedroom views, we were somewhat disappointed when we arrived last night in what appeared to be a lifeless urban industrial estate.  However, this turned out to be a great hotspot for pre-breakfast birding!  Emerging from the hotel in early morning sunlight, we immediately heard the beautiful, lilting song of a Golden Oriole from the trees nearby, and it wasn’t long until it flittted across to land in a nearby Poplar, giving decent views for this notoriously ‘tricky to see’ species. In another tall tree at the back of the car park, a largish bird sat perched on a branch, silhouetted against the white sky. As the sun brightened enough to reveal its subtle tones of colour, we were able to identify this as a Lesser Grey Shrike, a great find. We soon spotted another elsewhere in the same tree, presumably a pair. Next a Syrian Woodpecker flew in; fortunately our guide Dimiter arrived just in time to confirm the identity,

 I started the day with a short stroll around the fish farm adjacent to our hotel. There were several White and Grey Wagtails around the fish pans, and I disturbed a Raven feeding in a grassland area nearby, but it was generally very quiet on the bird front. We drove again to a mountain area, exploring the coniferous and broad-leaved forests as we continued our search for key target species, however, sadly our luck did not really improve. We had hoped to find Hazel Grouse, and although those at the front of the bus, noted a likely bird disturbed from the roadside, it disappeared too quickly for a confirmed identification, although Bernie felt it was the right shape and colour. The ubiquitous ‘one that got away!’ We stopped with the vain hope that it may reappear, and as we waited an obliging Willow Tit flew in, calling and foraging in some nearby trees, allowing decent views for all. At a short distance, we alighted for another stop, walking a short distance along a track, where we tri

 I was up early for a pre-breakfast walk around the grounds of our mountain chalet. Despite heavy overnight rain, it was a dry morning and the air was full of birdsong. As I rounded the corner I stumbled upon four Bullfinches flitting in the trees near the wood store, calling softly. On the open lawn Mistle Thrush hopped and searched for worms, and several Starlings also foraged here. A pair of noisy Black Redstarts were highly mobile, buzzing angrily as they criss-crossed the buildings and garden. Presumably there was a nest somewhere in the vicinity. A White Wagtail landed on the roof, giving a sharp call to let us know it was there. I almost missed the nest of Crag Martins in the barn by the wood pile, with birds sat quietly inside. Later they became more active, sweeping around us as they searched busily for insects. It was an enjoyable and highly rewarding start to the day. Black Redstart After breakfast we drove slowly through the forest. At the grassy glade, we again found Bullf

 We arrived at Sofia around lunchtime, and after a bite to eat at a local gas station, we set off for a fairly long transfer up into the Rila mountains. The landscape here was reminiscent of Dartmoor, but on a grander scale, with bilberries lining the banks of the tracks, grassy open glades, and lush, green vegetation. There was a mixture of broadleaf and conifer woodlands, full of birch, pine and beech.  The highlight of the drive was several Spotted Nutcrackers, a new species for me and what a cracker it is! Much more attractive than the books suggest, with a prominent white rump and a sprinkling of white spots. The flight was also distinctive, suggestive of a bird swimming butterfly stroke with its wings! Spotted Nutcracker  The altitude up here was almost 5000 feet, higher than Ben Nevis, and it was cold. I had clearly not packed appropriately for this weather! We drove to a high dam, at the edge of a large, sterile and birdless reservoir. On the concrete ballast we found a Grey Wa